Two of the best Vietnamese restaurants in the state are right across the street from one another, and, though I’m certainly not complaining (they are only a few blocks from where I live), that fact puzzles me. Given that most people are either disciples of the northern style of Thanh Thanh 2 or Saigon’s southern influence when it comes to a restorative bowl of pho, I felt that a side-by-side comparison was in order.For those who may be unfamiliar, the Vietnamese noodle soup known as pho is traditionally prepared with rice noodles and a variety of meats in a complex broth, simmered for long periods of time with beef bones and other cuts, various dried spices, and charred ginger and onion. It is served with a platter of garnishes, allowing for a wide range of individual styles and personal preferences for those who swear by it.

Personally, I love both restaurants for different reasons. For the sake of this experiment, I visit each and order a small bowl with the exact same combinations of meat: rare beef and meatballs. The elements up for comparison are the undoctored broth, noodles, meat, and garnishes. I consider adding presentation as a category, before realizing that that would be completely pointless and pretentious. The only thing that really matters here is what is in the bowl. I did, however, make note of the muzak I enjoyed while eating.

Saigon is the first destination, where I am forced to explain to the server that I am “on a diet” after apparently hurting his feelings by only ordering a small pho, which, in his defense, is certainly a rarity for me in this dining room. Of course, going directly across the street for another bowl is also a unique situation (I swear), but I choose not to disclose this information. Things go more smoothly at Thanh Thanh, where I am able to fly under the radar hassle free and focus on the matter at hand.

Here are the results:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saigon (pictured above) favors a sweeter, more delicate and aromatic broth with pronounced flavors of cinnamon and dried ginger, whereas Thanh Thanh (pictured below) offers a more intense, meaty stock with dominant characteristics of star anise and clove. Though I personally doctor my pho with fish sauce and black pepper, which works beautifully for either of these, those who favor hoisin and chili sauce may find that this combination works better with the richer elements of Thanh Thanh.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With regards to rice noodles, Saigon uses a thinner style that is easier to overcook. Thanh Thanh employs a wider-cut noodle, allowing for a more pleasant al dente texture and better flavor. They also go a bit heavier on the onions, scallions, and cilantro, providing a crunch that is a nice contrast to the rice noodles.

Beef meatballs for pho are starchy and springy in texture, sometimes made with a bit of tendon, and I will say that Saigon’s version is by far most flavorful. On the other hand, the rare beef, cooked by simply pouring hot broth over it, is sliced thinner and possesses an almost creamy texture at Thanh Thanh. That being said, the version at Saigon also satisfies.

Common elements on garnish platters at both restaurants include fresh chilies, lime wedges, Thai basil, and mung bean sprouts. Saigon, however, also provides sawtooth herb, which is almost like a combination of romaine lettuce and cilantro, and a side of spicy sate paste, made with fiery dried chilies. Sate is particularly delicious with sweet hoisin sauce mixed into it as a dip for the meats.

It seems that no matter how many times I dine at either place, there is always a moment when conversation breaks and someone wonders out loud “Isn’t this the muzak version of?” The selections for this particular evening at Saigon are Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On,” transitioning seamlessly into Bryan Adam’s time honored classic from Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, “(Everything I Do) I Do It For You.” Soundtracks also dominate at Thanh Thanh 2, with Whitney Houston’s “I Will Always Love You” and Seal’s “Kiss from a Rose.” Determining a winner in this category is a difficult decision so I’ll just call it a draw.

I will say that when it comes to beef pho, I prefer the preparation at Thanh Thanh 2 (I will also admit to having eaten it six days in a row on multiple occasions). This is not to say that I do not greatly enjoy Saigon’s version. And if chicken pho is your thing, Saigon is the place to go. At the end of the day, finding a favorite pho is a personal matter and I suggest you try both of these spots for yourself. After all, they are right across the street from each other!

 

Saigon Restaurant | 795 Forest Ave. | Portland | 207.874.6666

Thanh Thanh 2 | 782 Forest Ave. | Portland | 207.828.1114