Ogunquit
Friday
7:48 p.m. @ M.C. Perkins Cove
My traveling companion, Lisa, and I arrive later than anticipated for our dinner at M.C. Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. However, our work- week stress quickly subsides as we enter this waterfront oasis by culinary superstars Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier. Among other treats, the warm red cabbage salad is perfection. Frasier comes by our table to welcome us to town. He suggests that we try the pork bun. We do and are not disappointed.
10:10 p.m. @ the Beachmere Inn
We finally check into the Beachmere Inn. We settle into room 15, which is located in the original Victorian building. We immediately note that we are participating in a generations- old tradition. The guestbook on the fireplace mantle tells the stories of patrons arriving before us, many of them year- after-year summer guests. Tradition is a powerful force at the Beachmere.
Saturday
6:00 a.m. @ the Beachmere Inn
We’re stunned by the sunrise view that we enjoy from the large deck attached to our room. We spend time, me with coffee in hand, looking over Ogunquit Beach, the prime attraction here, before leaving for a quick buffet-style breakfast at the inn’s restaurant, Blue Bistro. The scene is casual, the offerings simple and just what we need to fuel up for our long run. Juice, granola, cut fruit, toast, and bagels are all available for the price of the room.
8:00 a.m. on the road
We’ve found that running, or walking, is the best way to see an area. We run past the public library and several well- established seaside hotels, and are on the lookout for restaurants and retail shops that we’ll come back to visit later. Ogunquit becomes rural (and transitions into Cape Neddick) very quickly, following the pattern of many coastal Maine towns. Less than three miles into the run we find tonight’s dining destination, the Velveteen Habit, and see a sign for Walker Stables. This is the multi-generational farm now owned by Justin and Danielle Walker, the dynamic chef and general manager from Earth at Hidden Pond.
9:30 a.m. on Marginal Way
We run past the inn, toward the water, and continue our run on Marginal Way. This
is a must-see for anyone visiting Ogunquit. The paved path weaves along the coastline from Ogunquit Beach to Perkins Cove. The ocean views are breathtaking and it’s fun to peek at the summer homes that dot the landscape along the way.
10:45 a.m. @ Pie in the Sky Bakery
We’re on our way to a post-run massage at 5 Elements, which recently relocated south of town to Cape Neddick. Nearby we spot Pie in the Sky. It looks promising so we park and venture inside. We feel like we’ve been invited into someone’s home kitchen, and the blueberry pie is absolutely divine.
11:00 a.m. @ 5 Elements Healing Center
The 5 Elements space includes a juice bar, shelving for nutritional supplements, and a therapy room upstairs. The two partners offer acupuncture and massage. We have opted for massage today, and after 60 minutes our running muscles and tired brains are feeling relaxed and ready for more adventuring.
12:15 p.m. Shore Drive
Shore Drive in Cape Neddick has a reputation for some of the most beautiful summer homes in the area. We’ve decided to take this less direct route back to the Beachmere Inn. We notice the Cape Neddick Lobster Pound sitting picture-perfect on the water’s edge.
12:35 p.m. @ Barnacle Billy’s
Barnacle Billy’s is opening for the season the day we are in town. The parking lot at Perkins Cove is nearly full and there is a large group waiting to enter. The buzz and excitement about this seasonal event are palpable. Counter service, killer views, deck seating, and the special rum punch are the order of the day.
12:45 p.m. @ Perkins Cove
We decide to explore the shops on the short peninsula referred to as Perkins Cove. This is the home of many fun retail stores such as the Perkins Cove Pottery Shop, Perkins Cove Candies, Spoiled Rotten, Dock Square Clothiers, and more. We’re tempted to get a lobster roll at the Lobster Shack, which has been owned and operated by the Evans family since the ’80s, but we decide we’ll need to come back later.
1:15 p.m. @ Roost Cafe and Bistro
The crew from Roost Cafe and Bistro participated in a past Kennebunkport Festival but I’ve never had an opportunity to stop by for lunch. Today is the day. A large bar area fills the left side of this restaurant and the right side is dedicated to dining in a comfortable country setting. We enjoy a delicious lunch and finish with an espresso and a tart that may have negated the positive impact of my earlier run.
2:30 p.m. in downtown Ogunquit
We head toward the town center, the intersection of Main Street and Shore Road, to browse. At This is It, I buy a pair of Sperrys; in Abacus Lisa adds a bracelet to her collection. We eye the pizzas at Cornerstone, and pause at Bread and Roses for a Cuban black bean soup. A quick stop at Stonehome Estate Jewelers to look over their unique heirloom pieces and then we’re off to our last shopping visit at Panache Gallery, This turns out to be one of the most enjoyable retail experiences of our trip. We leave enamored with the energetic owners, Rhonda Desisto and Doreen Chalif. The space is filled with one-of-a-kind jewelry and art that the duo has carefully curated and commissioned specifically for their store. None of their sales are done online; you’ll need to visit. But visiting, seeing the goods firsthand, and meeting these merchants is half of the fun.
7:00 p.m. @ the Velveteen Habit
We’ve been looking forward to dinner at Velveteen Habit for over a year. Owner Ben Goldman and chef Chris Wilcox have transformed the former Arrows space to a new concept and have received many accolades for their effort. We feast on exquisite dishes that include whole calamari and striped mullet, and finish it all off with pot de crème. Curious about why my Manhattan tasted so special, I learn that the bartender makes his own bitters. We make plans to return for a special James Beard preview dinner.
9:15 p.m. @ the Front Porch
We’ve been looking forward to dinner at Velveteen Habit for over a year. Owner Ben Goldman and chef Chris Wilcox have transformed the former Arrows space to a new concept and have received many accolades for their effort. We feast on exquisite dishes that include whole calamari and striped mullet, and finish it all off with pot de crème. Curious about why my Manhattan tasted so special, I learn that the bartender makes his own bitters. We make plans to return for a special James Beard preview dinner.
Sunday
6:15 a.m. @ the Beachmere Inn
We enjoy our last Ogunquit sunrise from our deck— we’ll miss this view. We’re inspired to run the beach this morning. It’s a short run back toward town, down Wharf Lane, and then out to Ogunquit Beach. From there, the beach is wide, flat, and relatively firm, perfect conditions for a seven-mile run up the beach. It’s fun to see other early risers running, walking, chasing their dogs, or simply standing with their thoughts.
9:00 a.m. @ Blue Bistro
I’ve made a plan to meet with Sarah Diment this morning over breakfast at Blue Bistro. Sarah is the third-generation owner of the Beachmere (her family have been innkeepers for five generations). I’m struck by Sarah’s devotion to not only her guests but her staff. Rather than closing in the winter like many of her competitors, Sarah stays open in large part to keep her staff employed. She’s also made a substantial commitment to sustainability with the most visible effort being the Tesla charging station in her parking lot. We can’t talk long, Sarah has work to do. I love our Maine work ethic.
11:10 a.m. @ Footbridge Beach
On the way out of town, we stop again at Panache to pick up the glass art object that we’ve purchased, and also to say goodbye to our new friend, who gives us
a couple of suggestions, including Footbridge Beach. A footbridge leads to this portion of Ogunquit Beach, but the road is unmarked. You’d have to know about
it, and get there early, in order to avail yourself of the special access. I’ll leave it
at that and with the actual location unstated.
12:25 p.m. @ New England House Seafood and Sports Bar
The owners of the New England House Seafood and Sports Bar once owned Frills in Ogunquit. It was a local favorite but they wanted to expand and ended up just over the Ogunquit line in Wells. It turns out to be a great recommendation for some solid Maine fare, and we leave satiated both with the meal and our whirlwind trip to and through Ogunquit.