"WHEN THE GROUND IS BEGINNING TO THAW AND THE WARM BLOODED ARE COMING OUT OF HIBERNATION, I pull what's left from the root cellar. I peel a few russet potatoes, boil them, and let them cool on the cold counter. I add a touch of flour and a couple cracked eggs laid only hours ago by my hens who've survived yet another Maine winter. I work the dough slowly and divide it into delicate thumbprints, pressing the tines of my fork against the pillows of pasta. This is how I reminisce about last year's harvest. This is my gnocchi." —Annemarie Ahearn

INGRID BENGIS started Ingrid Bengis Seafood in Stonington in 1984. She buys only from local fishermen, harvesters, and divers and supplies 25 of America's top restaurants.

"LAST WEEKEND, I VISITED MY BEST FRIEND AND FISHING PARTNER, LINDA GREENLAW, AT HER HOME ON ISLE AU HAUT. March doesn't mean the end of winter on the island, and the wispy vapor blowing across the bay was a sign that it would be a while before we're setting our own hooks for fish. I brought a nice thick fillet of halibut. Her grill was still iced in and the wind was harsh, so Linda seared the fillet and finished it in the oven. She topped it with spicy, fresh salsa for some heat on our chilly evening." —Rod Mitchell